Thursday 23 August 2012

Tea with the Queen

Well, sort of.  Andrew really did have tea with the Queen, and her family, after his choir sang for them one Christmas.  We got to hear all about it during this lovely weekend in Norfolk.  What we personally did follows.


We have had a quiet couple of weeks leading up to this trip.  Last weekend we took things quietly and did a bit of exploring locally.  On Saturday we drove a bit further afield in search of a particular pair of work shoes for Grant but had no luck, so on Sunday we went to Guildford to continue the search; it’s a pretty town and great fun for window-shopping in expensive stores.  We also found the work shoes so that was all good.
 
This weekend has been a lot more adventurous.  Grant went to work as usual on Friday, and I was coming into London to meet up with Rachel Steele from WGC who is over in Europe on a well-deserved sabbatical.  We were then going north to spend the weekend with my mother’s cousins Andrew and Brigitte Haig in King’s Lynn.  So I checked on Google maps (wonderful wonderful Google maps) and found Epping, a station at the end of the Central line of the Underground, from which we could drive pretty much straight north.  I left home at 8am and drove to Epping.  The car was safely parked there for just £5.50 for the whole day, and I hopped on the train to the city.  I was meeting Rachel and her partner Selwyn in Leicester Square at 11am.  I arrived at 10.30, just in time to get a text from Rachel saying they were early, so we all went in search of a decent coffee.  I had been told that ‘Sacred’ was run by Antipodeans and the closest one was only a few minutes’ walk away.  Sure enough we found it and my Wellington friends were able to get a flat white.  My latte was ok, but I still very much miss Astoria on Lambton Quay.

After a leisurely morning tea, we walked along the north bank of the Thames to the Millennium Bridge and the Tate Modern.  It was certainly a much better day for pedestrian bridges than the day in November 2006 when I insisted on crossing the Millennium Bridge in the pouring rain, just so I could say I’d been on it!

The Tate Modern was very interesting; I actually enjoyed the building itself more than the installations we saw.  There are some truly awe-inspiring spaces in there.  I was also interested to see the installation “The Crystal Quilt’ as I had heard a long interview with the artist in Radio 4.  I am not sure I would really have understood the purpose of that installation if I had not previously heard the interview, which made me wonder what other viewers made of it.

We had a late lunch together in a restaurant on the South Bank, out on the deck enjoying the beautiful summer day.  I could get into the habit of being a people-watcher I think!  After lunch it was time for Rachel and Selwyn to return to where they were staying, and not far off time for me to meet Grant.  He had gone into work early in the hope of getting away early for our drive. 

We were in the car and on the road north by 4.30 which we were pretty pleased about.  Our satnav gave us pretty good directions, not taking us off easy main roads until we reached Ely.  We were running ahead of schedule  but I couldn’t call Andrew to let him know as we ended up too far off the beaten track for cell phone coverage.


We arrived safely at the Haig home before 6.30, and it was great to be out of the car.  Andrew and Brigitte had travelled to NZ in February with Andrew’s brother Murray, and we had the pleasure of meeting them then.  This was the first time I had seen them since I was a small child, and we really enjoyed having them visit us briefly.  It was equally lovely to visit their home.  We were immediately made so welcome.  After a delicious evening meal, we were taken to the “Ouse Booze”, a local boat club of which Andrew and Brigitte are members.  We sat out on the deck over the River Ouse drinking and chatting until the daylight had gone.  The club faces east so we didn’t get to watch the actual sunset, but it was beautiful all the same.


Saturday dawned sunny and hot (even before breakfast), and we made a leisurely start.  The major attraction for the day was to be Sandringham, the Queen’s home and the residence where the whole royal family has Christmas.  The grounds are glorious, with wonderful stands of rhododendron (not currently flowering) and hydrangea (in fine form) as well as many English native trees and flowers.  We wandered the grounds slowly as it was far too hot to go at any kind of speed.  Luckily the beautiful established trees provided plenty of shade.

The house itself is equally beautiful.  Luckily the royal family are currently at Balmoral, so we were able to tour the ground floor.  The guides are staff who help to care for the family when they are in residence, and they happily shared lovely stories that illustrate a warm and caring family relaxing together.  I really enjoyed it, but did find myself thinking it must be hard to have such a long family history.  The rooms are so full of collections of art and sculptures that Queen Elizabeth’s parents and grandparents acquired that she has no room to collect anything herself.  Still, she has other homes.  Maybe her collections are elsewhere.

We had lunch at the Sandringham Tea Shoppe before tackling the Sandringham Museum where quite a number of the decommissioned royal cars are on display.  The Queen’s Rolls Royce is huge!  No wonder she usually comes to Norfolk by train; the Rolls wouldn’t fit down most of the Norfolk roads!


After Sandringham, we drove to the Wolferton Station where the royal family, and any royal guests, used to arrive by train.  The station is closed now and the tracks removed, but it is still a beautifully maintained old building.  I can just imagine its grandeur when a Tsar or European prince arrived in his first class (and then some) carriage for a private visit to Sandringham.

The consensus was that this was enough for one very hot day, although we did detour past Norfolk Lavender where Grant got some Norfolk Lavender beer, and I got some lavender honey for bread-making.  Apparently the beer was very refreshing, but Grant felt the ‘brewed with a hint of lavender’ was more along the lines of ‘brewed quite close to some lavender fields’.



St. Nicholas's Chapel
On Sunday morning Andrew, a vicar, was conducting services at two village churches, so Brigitte kindly took us into King’s Lynn to see some of the old buildings.  We started at St. Nicholas’s Chapel, a lovely old chapel commissioned by the local merchants in the early 14th century.  The spire is clad with lead in a gorgeous overlapping design I haven’t seen before.  Inside, there are amazing wooden angels at the base of all the major wooden roof beams.  There were volunteers there as guides, and to maintain the Photographic Club exhibition that is on.  One of these guides is a friend of Andrew and Brigitte’s and was so friendly and informative.  He even opened a set of doors that are being restored so we could see some of the restoration work. 
One of the roof-beam angels.





From here we wandered through the main shopping street and down to the old Customs House on the wharf.  Outside of this is a statue of Captain Vancouver who charted most of the coastline of the Pacific Northwest.

We got back to the car just before the parking warden ticketed us (phew!) and returned home to meet Andrew, who cheerfully informed us that he had done “enough religion for four” that morning so we had no need to feel guilty!

We went out for lunch to a place called Knight’s Hill and despite the heat we all succumbed to the lure of the carvery and had a delicious roast lunch.  We tried very hard to pay, but Brigitte was not to be argued with.  We have consoled ourselves with the promise to return and take them out for a meal next time.


We returned to King’s Lynn for the afternoon, starting with St. Margaret’s Church.  This is still a parish church, and what fascinated Grant and I was how crooked it is.  The land it is on is very soft, and the weight of the stone has caused pillars and walls to shift and lean over the centuries.  I have to say I didn’t feel very safe in it – especially the side chapel which had a small sign warning about falling masonry.  Obviously Health and Safety officers hold no sway in a house of God.

No, I was not holding my camera crooked!
We then wandered to the river and along to the Custom House once more via some lovely little old courts and streets – King’s Lynn has a lot of crooked buildings, but they are so pretty.  This time we went into the Custom House, but sadly we couldn’t go right up to the top to look out from the vantage point of the Chief Excise Officer, who used to sit up there and watch the ships come in so he knew where to send his lackeys to collect the excise.  Another time perhaps.

As it was so very hot, our last stop was a lovely café on the riverside to get a cold drink and sit inside out of the sun.  As Brigitte said, it might have been just too difficult to get back to the car without some refreshment.

Sadly, after this we needed to get on the road home.  Andrew suggested that perhaps Grant didn’t really need to go to work the next day, but tempted as we were we knew we had to get back.  We have promised to return again soon; apparently we still have to spend a day in Cambridge, a day in Ely and a day in Norwich, and that’s all without even visiting poor Foxglove!  I think there might be regular trips to King’s Lynn ahead of us.

A day out in London


Even though the Olympics are on and London and its transport system were supposed to be busy beyond belief, we thought that it was about time that we spent a day just exploring London.  So we headed in on the fast train and made it into Waterloo by 10am on Saturday morning.  Our first stop was to be St Paul’s Cathedral.  Our last attempt to see St Paul’s had been when the Dalai Lama was visiting and so we missed out.  We were also careful to make sure that we didn’t go visiting on a Sunday after last week’s visit to Salisbury.  As it was a lovely morning, we decided to walk there.
 

St Paul’s took a lot longer than I was anticipating.  While it is an amazing building from the outside, it is even more spectacular inside.  We spent a while marvelling at the internal architecture, and the beautifully sculpted memorials to various English heroes.  I guess it was a sign of the times, but they were nearly all remembered for being great commanders in the various armed forces.  It was good to see a couple of memorials to doctors / physicians who had kept some member of the royal family in good health, or just been general good guys.



Having scouted around the ground floor, we then took on the challenge of the stairs.  There are 3 levels to St Paul’s.  The first lot of stairs takes you to the whispering gallery which goes around the inside of the dome.  This gave us a great view of the paintings on the ceiling of the dome.  From there we ascended further, but this time ended up on the outside of the dome.  Instead of looking down inside, the views were of the city.  While the views from here were great, going up to the last level and looking out from the top of St Paul’s was more amazing.

The view from the base of the Dome

Looking down from the top of the Dome
After St. Pauls, we made our way in the Tube to Leicester Square to look for one of the cheap ticket kiosks.  While I had a particular one in mind, we found that there was one actually in the Tube station which was much easier.  We bought tickets to We Will Rock You, and then tried to work out how to fill the time until 7pm. 

The fountains outside Kiwi House
We hopped back on the tube to Kings Cross St. Pancras in order to visit Kiwi House.  This was set us for Kiwi’s in London to go and watch some NZ coverage of the Olympics.  We got there and there was a queue for about 25 metres.  We got into the queue but were soon told it would take about an hour for us to get in, as they could only let new people in when others left.  We had not had any lunch, and there was an outdoor area with a BBQ smelling fantastic.  The fact that we weren’t going to get any of it for an hour was a bit disheartening.  Reluctantly we left the queue and went in search of some lunch.  We had burned quite a lot of energy climbing St. Pauls after all.

After some nice pizza not too far away we re-joined the queue, ready to wait for an hour.  In fact it only took about 40 minutes and we were in.  It was quite fun inside; there was a really big screen and a random selection of chairs around, but the place was very loud.  We couldn’t really have a conversation while watching, and there were no NZ events on at that time either.  We got to watch Serena Williams annihilate Maria Sharapova and we couldn’t even hear Sharapova.  Maybe that was a good thing…

Sadly, none of the NZ Olympic team showed up to show off medals (the rowers came in on Sunday instead, rotters) so we had a drink, sat around a little and then continued on.  We decided that we didn’t really want to get back on the Underground and instead walked to the British Museum.  This was, of course, choc full of very interesting exhibits but we were getting quite foot-sore by then.  And we also felt that the Museum wasn’t very user friendly in terms of giving directions around it.  I did particularly enjoy the Iron Age Europe exhibit though.  We might have to go back when we haven’t spent so such of the day walking.

We just had time left for a leisurely pub meal before our show; Grant’s cold beer and my cup of tea were extremely welcome by that stage too.

The theatre was very easy to find – it’s hard to miss the gold Freddy Mercury up on top of the portico!!  We armed ourselves with ice-creams and found our seats pretty easily, and settled in for an evening of Queen.  We loved the show – the story is pretty cheesy but really, it’s surprising how well Queen’s songs can be woven into a narrative.  The music and singers were superb and we got right into the singing along.  I hope our near neighbours didn’t mind too much!!  At interval I bought a programme and was most surprised to find that Bohemian Rhapsody wasn’t on the list of songs for the second half.  A celebration of Queen’s music without Bohemian Rhapsody?  Yeah right.  It was played as an encore and I reckon EVERYONE in the audience was singing!  What a great night out (although, as the guy in the ticket office said, “If you like Queen it’s great fun.  If you don’t like Queen you are in for a long night!”).

Weary but still humming, we made our way back to Waterloo and onto a train home.  I’ll say one thing for coming home late, at least you get a seat!

Friday 3 August 2012

Sunday worship?


On Sunday we got up bright and early and hit the road to drive to Stonehenge.  The gates opened at 9am and we thought it would be a good idea to be there right from the start.  Strangely, a couple of weeks of fine summer weather have affected our brains and we arrived to find it a bit cool and quite overcast – and our coats were at home.  With little other option, we hardened up and hoped it wouldn’t actually rain on us.

We are among a dozen or so people waiting for the gates to open, and we delighted to get (slightly) fast-tracked as we have English Heritage membership.  This not only got us in for free, but got us in the quick gate.  Armed with our audio guides, we went to look at the stones.  Sadly, years of petty vandalism in the form of etching one’s initial and/or chipping off a little souvenir have resulted in the stones being roped off; the closest tourists can get now is about 20 metres or so.  I believe participating in solstice rituals gets you close up but that’s not really us.  We settled for a slightly distant view, which is still quite a bit closer than all the cheapskates who parked outside the fence with telephoto lenses! (“Cheapskates” is probably a bit harsh; since we got in free I didn’t pay any attention to the admission prices but I understand it’s pretty steep given that you aren’t allowed close)

It took us about 40 minutes to wander around the outside, listening with fascination to the possible histories, uses and construction methods.  It may be a ruin now but it is mind-boggling to think of transporting and raising such huge stones by hand – what you can see is only about 2/3 of the size as the rest is buried in the ground to keep them upright.



We left, as always, through the shop where we stopped buy the guide.  We are getting quite a collection of such souvenirs but I always enjoy reading about a place more than I do listening to audio guides.  We were quite amazed to see the queue as we left – it was close to 10m long and three people deep!  There were at least half a dozen coaches now parked up, and more arriving.  Clearly getting there at 9am was a very good idea.
 
We felt that simply driving straight home when we were so close to Salisbury was a bit silly, so we decided to balance our pagan visit by detouring down to check out the cathedral.  We didn’t know much about it, so we were delighted once we parked to find ourselves in a charming little town (I know that having a cathedral makes it a city, but it's town-sized).  The fast-moving river was home to more than a few beautiful white swans, and there are some gorgeous old stone buildings now housing High Street shops.  We found a nice café and stopped for brunch (getting to Stonehenge by 9am had meant not having breakfast) before going to find the cathedral.
 
 Salisbury Cathedral is extraordinarily beautiful.  We wandered in the cloisters and did have a short look inside the church.  There was of course a Sunday service on and while I thoroughly enjoyed the singing (enhanced by glorious acoustics), we felt a little uncomfortable disturbing the worship even though there were plenty of other tourists doing the same.  We have decided to go back on a Saturday so that we can take a full tour of the cathedral including the tower and the roof.

It was fascinating to stand outside the cathedral in beautiful sunshine (see, we didn’t need our coats after all) and look beyond the city; there was clearly downpours happening in several places around us but we were dry.  We even got home dry to meet Mark, Paula and the girls who had come for lunch.  Grant and Mark went to get pizza for everyone – and I ended up on a rescue mission in the car as the rain finally caught up with us.

Salisbury's resident dragon